Vacheron Constantin

An encounter with the gem setter at the Vacheron boutique in Paris

 

Yesterday I visited the Vacheron boutique of Paris. There was a reason behind this visit: actually, to celebrate the "journées européennes des métiers d'art", Vacheron proposed to Gérard Paquelet, the gem setter, to put his workbench inside the boutique for a demonstration of his craftsmanship and skills. So I couldn't miss his presence since gem setting is an art I highly appreciate.

For this specific event, Vacheron managed to gather some watches which were presented at the very latest SIHH like the full set of the 4 Fabuleux Ornements pieces.

Let's start with the Ottoman Architecture watch. Like any Fabuleux Ornements piece, it features a 37mm case and it is powered by the caliber 1003SQ.

The bezel is set with 64 diamonds.

The dial is made of white mother-of-pearl under an openworked gold plate. The dial is hand chamfered (look at the perfect shape of the patterns) and adorned with half-pearls.



The movement, and so the subdial dedicated to the time display are off-centered:



This is the Indian Manuscrit version which features an Grand Feu champlevé enamelling and hand-engraving dial.

Even if the decoration technique is not the same, Vacheron achieved a result as perfect than with the previous dial: the flowers are delicate and  well outlined. This version plays with the colours and manages to catch the atmosphere of its inspiration.

I think that my fav watch is the French Lace version. Its name is very promising and the result meets our expectations. The dial is made of hand-guilloché and translucent Grand Feu enamelling (look at its superb colour!) under an openworked gold plate.  Blue and pink sapphire & diamonds are set to highlight the superb pattern of the curves and of the knots. Do you see the feeling of depth on the dial decoration?

Last watch is the Chinese Embroidery version. This time, the dial is made of  hand-engraving stone-cloisonné (pink opale) while the flowers on it gather glyptic of ruby, garnet and cuprite.


4 watches which share the same base but due to their different artistic and decoration techniques look very different.

Since the topic of the day was gem setting, I asked to Vacheron if I could handle more watches... and this time set with larger stones!

I know that this kind of watches is not our cup of tea but the quality of the setting is impressive thanks to a perfect mastery of this difficult art.

I give you an example: look at the pattern drawn below by the stones: they highlight the beauty of the Malte Tourbillon. Don't you have the feeling that the Tourbillon looks like a star?

This Patrimony Traditionnelle Openwork Automatic features the caliber 1120SQ. It is a true pleasure to observe the winding rotor moving thanks to the squeletonized work.

The picture below displays the 3 Patrimony Traditionnelle Haute Joaillerie. The first watch on the left has a 30mm case and is quartz powered. The middle size watch has a 35mm diameter and uses the Caliber 1400. The last watch on the left  is animated with the caliber 4400 and has a 40mm diameter.

Believe it or not but they bear (almost) the same number of diamonds: 304 for the smallest one, 308 for the two others.

The 40mm version:

Look at the finishings of the case side: flawless... which is not an easy task! You can also notice the metal which frame the diamonds. The technique used by the gem setter is called the "partage". Once the gem is set, thanks to the partage, the setter can tighten it into the frame.

Then I could very closely observe Mr Gérard Paqueret. Gérard Paqueret has an almost 40 years experience in gem setting so it was fascinating for the guests to listen to him. The screen on the right allowed us to have some close-up views on what he was doing. Precision, mastery, calm are the key words here... any mistake could have a serious consequence!

Mr Paqueret explains how to prepare the bezel before setting the gems.

At work:

When I'm talking about gems, I am not necessarily referring to large diamonds. Look at these ones, they are so small that they are hardly visible. But once set, they show all their magic and beauty!

Don't lose the diamond!

The bezel is now set:

Yes, yes, there is small diamond hidden on the pic! Are you able to find it?

Mr Paqueret at work:

Mr Paqueret with Christelle Konan, manager of the Vacheron Constantin Boutique in Paris:

I would like to finish this report with a few pictures of a watch which is not a novelty. This Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is available only in the Vacheron boutiques network. It features a SS 42mm case with titanium bezel and pushers screws.

The slate dial with sunray finishings combine nicely with the case colours. The chronograph functions use the yellow hands.

The watch is powered by the Caliber 1136QP which is not visible due to the solid caseback... coherent with the Overseas line.

The watch on the wrist: it is comfortable thanks to its rubber strap. This watch can be considered as a meeting point between two sides of Vacheron: the world of complications with the chronograph and the PC and the world of the more casual watches with the Overseas line. A good way to enjoy a prestigious complication (the PC) in a more relaxed context...

I would like to thank a lot Mr Paqueret and the staff of the Vacheron boutique for the warm welcome.

Fx


This message has been edited by foversta on 2014-04-06 08:08:50

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