Some random thoughts on my XXL, an old Historiques, and collecting vintage VC

Jul 31, 2014,11:28 AM
 

I would like to thank all the forum participants in the thread below about the two 38 mm Vacheron Constantin timepieces, one vintage, the other modern, for their contributions. You guys are a thoughtful bunch, and some have some very strong opinions! I especially appreciate those who preferred still other watches than those two!





Some mentioned that the Historiques collection is a great way to go when it comes to getting much of the charm of a vintage watch, with the advantages of modern manufacturing and without the risks of fraudulent watches as we too often see in the vintage market. What many of you may not know is that the vintage 4538 served as a model for a Historiques piece from the 1990’s: the reference 92239!




Photo from Antiquorum


The lugs capture much of the charm of the vintage piece, but I suspect many of you may cringe when I mention that it is all of 33 mm in diameter. (Keep in mind that this was in line with the size of many VC watches from the ear of the 1990’s: the Mercator (43050) and Perpetual Calendar (43031) were 36 mm, the Audubon (43060) and Tourbillon (30050) were the giants of the collection at 38 mm)

Another aspect of the 92239 that leaves me cold compared with the 4538 is that the bezel is both polished and is not recessed like in the vintage piece:





The interplay between the circular grain finish of the bezel of the 4538 with the high polish of the lugs and out rim of the case makes for a visually interesting contrast. 

Another 38 mm timepiece from the same era that would be of interest to vintage Vacheron Constantin collectors is the reference 4627, which also has distinctive lugs:




Photo by Alex Ghotbi


The 4627 employs the slimmer caliber 1002, while the 4538 uses the larger (by 8 mm) caliber 454.

This photo of the caliber 454 dates from before I sent my XXL in for service:





This is my all-time favorite movement from Vacheron Constantin. The design and finish is beautiful, the winding is satisfying both to the ear and to the touch, and the accuracy is great, even after 60+ years of work.

While it would be best to acquire a vintage watch complete with its original boxes and papers, it is extremely rare to find old watch in complete condition. While I do have a box for this watch, I don’t know it if the box I have was born with the watch. I received no papers with it. When sending it for service I asked that Vacheron Constantin issue a Certificate of Authenticity. I wouldn’t have a COA issued for many vintage pieces, but I think this watch deserves the document.





It is hard to express just how much I am enjoying this watch! May your watches do the same for you!

Bill

VC Forum Moderator

 

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Comments: view entire thread

 

Yes Bill, I am drooling

 
 By: 4Js : July 31st, 2014-18:54
I have to see this one in person the next time we meet. Everything is just first class. Enjoy! Hagwe Joe

Your passion for this one...

 
 By: respo : August 1st, 2014-05:33
...is fueling my desire to delve deeper into V&C vintage. And you know I have a target. I am glad to see you enjoying this one so much. The movement is wonderful, so the beauty runs deep in your XXL. And it sounds as if the everyday experience of wear... 

Thanks for the writeup and great pics. As far as 92239 size

 
 By: watchthatman : August 1st, 2014-14:19
I would love to see it in person. One thing that struck me about the 1955 ultra fine when I put it on was just how perfectly it wore. If you had told me a 36 would look like the perfect size, I would not have believed it, since today most 36 mm watches lo... 

My XXL experience

 
 By: Tick Talk : August 6th, 2014-08:23
I share your great fondness for the XXL watches, Bill, and regret letting mine go. However, I know the person who now has it and it couldn't be in better hands. Ref 4536 cal 454/5B, 12 1/2 lignes ...