WHL[VC Moderator]
4922
Review: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding
Mar 21, 2013,13:04 PM
Vacheron Constantin has the practice of announcing and releasing new
watches separate from SIHH, which takes place every January. A
highlight of their 2012 novelties was the Patrimony Traditionnelle
Self-Winding, reference 43075/000R-9737, which was introduced in
October, 2012.
The
Patrimony Traditionnelle collection consists of a broad range of
watches, from high complications like the Calibre 2755 ( with Perpetual
Calendar, Minute Repeater, Tourbillon) to the mid-complications (World
Time and Chronograph), to the simple, like this watch and the base
Patrimony Traditionnelle with manual winding calibre 4400. All are
united by the round case shape, with lateral step which extends to the
lugs, and with knurling on the case back:
Dials
are distinguished by Dauphine hands with a mix of frosted and polished
surfaces for easy legibility, opaline finish with applied hour markers,
and minute track in a differing hue.
The dimensions of the
Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding are a 41 mm diameter with a slim 7
mm height, giving the watch a low profile on the wrist:
This slimness is due to the ultra thin automatic calibre 1120 that powers the watch.
The
1120 is a legendary calibre that Jaeger LeCoultre developed for the
exclusive use of Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet (with Patek
Philippe using the movement briefly in the early 1970’s). With a
thickness of 2.45 mm it was the thinnest automatic movement in
production, and it continues to this day to be a wonderful engine for
complications, having powered the Mercator, Heure Sautante, Saltarello,
and Perpetual Calendar watches.
The 1120 was originally designed
to use a free-sprung Gyromax balance, and VC employed it this way for
many years, but in the 1980’s and 1990’s, the brand got away from this
and used a microscrew regulator to adjust the timekeeping, a less
elegant, but economical, solution.
At SIHH 2010, Vacheron
Constantin reintroduced the Gyromax balance in the 1120 for the
Historiques 1968, though the movement remained hidden behind a solid
case back. In 2011, Vacheron Constantin introduced the Patrimony
Contemporaine Perpetual Calendar:
and the Patrimony Contemporaine Self-Winding Excellence Platine:
both
of which use the 1120. The Patrimony Traditionnelle continues this
redeployment of the 1120 in Vacheron Constantin watches. The openworked
rotor, with Maltese Cross decoration, is both beautiful and always
allows for a full view of the architecture of this classic movement.
Vacheron Constantin proudly proclaims that the movement is stamped with
the Hallmark of Geneva.
With
the Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding and also the manual winding
Patrimony Contemporaine, Vacheron Constantin has cornered the market on
elegant two-hand watches that fulfill today’s watch collectors
preference for watches 38 mm and larger. Any flaws in design and
execution of the case and dial are amplified when looking at the
minimalistic display of simply the hours and minutes. These watches are
flawless. That Vacheron Constantin has succeeded superlatively well
with these two models is a testament to their excellence in paying
attention to all the details that go into making a fine watch. Bravo!
Bill Lind
VC Forum Moderator