In 1921, Vacheron & Constantin presented a new watch design which featured a cushion-shaped case where the dial and crown were rotated 45 degrees to the right. This daring piece became known by collectors as the “American” after its intended market. In 2008, VC once again offered this unique model as the Historiques American 1921, which has been very well received. One wonders what the future holds for the concept. Perhaps the past may once again inspire the present?
1921 V&C "American"
I am referring to an interesting hommage to the original American, created in the 1930’s by H.R. Ekegren of Geneva for the Philadelphia jewelers J.E. Caldwell. This fascinating piece mimicked the 1921’s distinctive cushion case with offset dial and crown, then added some horological spice; a minute repeater!
I had to learn more about all aspects of this watch and hope you also find it interesting.
Henri Robert Ekegren was a Danish watchmaker of the 19th century. For the period we are addressing, it is most relevant to know that in 1891 the company was sold to the renowned watchmaker and director from the ateliers of Patek Philippe; Edouard Koehn.
Ed. Koehn kept the Ekegren company name while acting as chief designer and engineer until his death in 1908. His son, also Edouard, continued the father’s heritage until the company was dissolved in the 1930’s.
As with Robert Cart (click here ), Koehn also produced complicated watches for other customers, including Tiffany, Cartier and Caldwell. His specialty was retrograde displays and extra-flat watches, which often were signed “Ed. Koehn”.
J.E. Caldwell should be familiar to vintage watch collectors as well. Established in 1839, the Philadelphia jewelers and silversmiths adopted its familiar name in 1868. They continued operations until 2009 when the holding company, Finlay Enterprises, went bankrupt, also dragging down another historic name; Bailey Banks & Biddle. Caldwell’s gold-era was undoubtedly the 1920’s Art Deco period and their legacy remains in the vintage market.
This exploration leaves me wondering, is there a place in today’s marketplace for an American 1921 Minute Repeater?